Overview And Highlights
The first four days of a Tsum or a Manaslu trek are the same: a drive from Kathmandu to Arughat, on the Budhi Gandaki River in the Gorkha district. Follow the river (on a “developing road”) to, for now, Machha Khola, for a first night. Continue up the valley through glorious scenery for two days to a fork in the trail that branches, northeast to the Tsum Valley and northwest to Manaslu. Drainage water from Tsum’s Siyar Khola flows into Manaslu’s considerable Budhi Gandaki at this point.
The vegetation is lush and countless waterfalls add drama to the trails. Farmlands surround the villages and enticing mountain vistas appear on occasion. At present, a road is being aggressively built that will lead to Tibet: and is now “approaching” Doban. It has already shortened the trek by one day.
The Tsum Valley was first opened to trekking at the Tsumbas request in 2008. The valley lies along the border with Tibet and is one of the most secluded in the Himalayas. Little has changed and you are offered a rich glimpse into a bygone era. The topography of the region calls for much up and down walking, making this a fairly demanding trek: good pre-fitness is essential. Five busy days are spent in the valley.
Manaslu is first seen on day three of this section of the trek and a rest day is included on day 5 at Samagaon – with Manaslu’s twin peaks rising majestically above a ridge. A day walk to the Pungyen Nunnery, below Manaslu or a walk up to the Manaslu Base camp are on offer. The Larkya La is a further three days beyond Samagaon and descends, with stunning scenery on the northern side, to the welcoming village of Bimthang. Beyond, walk through pristine forest down to Gho for a restful lower night. Then walk down to Dharapani on the Annapurna trail and continue to Tal for a night. Finally walk, then drive to Besi Sahar for a final night before a jeep ride back to Kathmandu and your
hotel.
Days
22 days
Distance
180 Km
Difficulty
Medium
Highest Point
5160 mt
Best Season For The Trek
The vegetation is lush and countless waterfalls add drama to the trails. Farmlands surround the villages and enticing mountain vistas appear on occasion. At present, a road is being aggressively built that will lead to Tibet: and is now “approaching” Doban. It has already shortened the trek by one day.
Trek Difficulty
The Tsum Valley was first opened to trekking at the Tsumbas request in 2008. The valley lies along the border with Tibet and is one of the most secluded in the Himalayas. Little has changed and you are offered a rich glimpse into a bygone era. The topography of the region calls for much up and down walking, making this a fairly demanding trek: good pre-fitness is essential. Five busy days are spent in the valley
Day To Day Itinerary
Day 1
1300 mtArrival: Kathmandu Tribhuvan International Airport (1 300m/4 260ft)
After completing passport, immigration and visa requirements, collect your luggage and exit the building where we
will meet you. (Look for our Travel Nepal Himalays name board and your name). We will then transfer you to your
hotel: afternoon free.
Evening: a welcome dinner, trek description and a check on essential gear. Overnight in hotel.
Transfer: car
Food: welcome dinner
Accomodation: Hotel
Day 2
1300 mtA Day in the City: Kathmandu Valley Sightseeing OR A Day at Leisure
Take a day tour that includes six heritage sites including Swayambhunath, the “Monkey Temple”; the historical
Durbar Square with ancient temples, unique art, and the chance to see the Kumari (living goddess); Patan’s Durbar
Square; the Hindu temple Pashupatinath and Bouddhanath, the world’s largest stupa.
OR: A day at leisure to follow your own interests.
A guide, car and driver will take you to each site-entrance. The car will wait for you. (Entry tickets and lunch are not
included.)
Transfer: car
Food: breakfast
Accomodation: Hotel
Day 3
890 mtKathmandu – Arughat (670m/2,198 ft) – Machha Khola (890m/2,920ft)
Enjoy the scenic drive west through the middle hills to Malekhu before turning north, on a quieter road, to Dhading
Besi and Arughat (centre of the region) on the Budhi Gandaki Nadi. The inhabitants are a harmonious mix of Gurung
and Newar people. The road then undulates over ridges, past waterfalls, before dropping to rice paddies and the
attractive Gurung village of Labubesi. Beyond, the new road follows the river before rising to Machha (Fish) Khola –
with good views of the 7,000m/22,950ft Ganesh Himal. Overnight at Machha Khola.
Transfer: 7-8 hrs drive
Food: breakfast, lunch, dinner
Accomodation: Hotel
Day 4
1000 mtMachha Khola – Dobhan (1,000m/3,280ft)
New roadworks are currently under construction; bound for Tibet. For now, the river trail drops to the gravel bar
before crossing the Thado Khola to a rocky ravine and Khorlabesi. There is a small hot spring at Tatopani. The trail
then climbs a ridge before crossing the Budhi Gandaki on a suspension bridge and up to Dobhan. Overnight at
Dobhan.
Trek: 5-6 hrs
Food: breakfast, lunch, dinner
Accomodation: Lodge
Day 5
1590 mtDobhan – Philim (1,590m/5,216ft)
Trek along the east bank to a long suspension bridge over the Yaru Khola before rising to Thado Bharyang. Cliffs then
force the trail back to the west bank and follow the river gently upwards to the attractive village of Jagat (and permit
checks). Walk on to Salleri, via a cliff-side trail – with views of Shringi Himal (7,187m) to the north. Descend to
Sirdibas; and the first signs of Buddhist culture. Another suspension bridge leads to the east bank, and a tiring climb
up to Philim: a prosperous Gurung village and the Chholing Sandu Gompa, surrounded by fields of maize and millet.
Overnight at Philim.
Trek: 5-6 hrs
Food: breakfast, lunch, dinner
Accomodation: Lodge
Day 6
2360 mtPhilim – Ekle Batti (1 600m/5 50ft) – (Lokpa (2 240m/7 350ft) – Chumling (2 360m/7 750ft)
The trail winds through scrub and lush grasses up the beautiful narrowing valley to the high millet fields of Chisopani,
then Ekle Bhatti (one house) with a dramatic view. Gradually descend, past a spectacular waterfall, into the gorge
and a junction: left to The Manaslu trail, right to Tsum. A well-graded trail zigzags up through blue pines and
rhododendron, to Lokpa in the narrow Lower Tsum Valley. Tsum has 18 villages and is home to ~4 000 people.
Drop down through forest, before tackling a long, steep climb up the south wall of the Siyar Khola gorge that drains
Tsum. The ‘summit’ is at flags; overlooking colourful potato, bean and grain fields with Shringi Himal (7 178m) above.
Descend to Gumlung and cross the river: for a final, gentler ascent to Chumling. The buildings are classic Tibetan but
with sloping roofs to shed rain and snow. Overnight in Chumling.
Trek: 6-7 hrs
Food: breakfast, lunch, dinner
Accomodation: Lodge
Day 7
3010 mtChumling – Chhekampar (3 010m/9 850ft)
The trail crosses the river to new forest on an old landslide. Pass a water powered prayer wheel on a gentle trail in
deep forest: look out for chattering white-faced langurs. At Tanju (2 480m) the small Damphe Gompa houses
hundreds of small Chenresig (Buddha of Compassion) ceramic statues: a common feature in Tsum’s gompas.
Beyond Dumje there are views of Baudha Peak and the Ganesh Himal. Cross the Sarphu Khola: draining the Syakpa
Glacier from Shringi Himal. Then climb for ~2½ hrs, past Gho through birch, larch and pine forest, to the broad
relatively flat Upper Tsum Valley.
Impressive slate chortens facing Ganesh II precede a kani gate (a decorated entrance arch) to the, now joined,
villages of Chhokang and Paro; collectively called Chhekampar (place of wisdom). Houses nestle together to
maximise agricultural land for barley, buckwheat, maize and potatoes: crops that ripen in high, short growing
seasons. Yaks graze in pastures, tahrs graze along cliffs: and need monitoring to prevent crop losses. Overnight in
Chhekampar.
Exploration Days: Let your guide help you juggle the choice of activities with the time constraints: and possibly
altering the choices, below, for each day…
Trek: 5-6 hrs
Food: breakfast, lunch, dinner
Accomodation: Lodge
Day 8
4000 mtChhekampar – Nile (3 480m/11 400ft) – Mu Gumba (3 709m/12 169ft) – Dephyu Doma (4 000m)
The Siyar Khola flows down the centre of the valley; two bridges cross it: the first before Ngakyu – Leru (south of the
Rachen Nunnery), the second north of Lamjung and Milarepa’s Cave.
Possible choices:
1) Walk to Ngakyu – Leru (3 200m) and on to Lama Gaon (3 300m) and Burji (3 380m):- for tickets to Milarepa’s
Cave. There is an impression of Milarepa’s foot, an elephant shaped rock and two small gompas: one over his
meditation place, the other devoted to local Nyingma-pa deities. Go early if you are enroute to Mu and Dephyu
Doma Gompas. (Perhaps consider delaying this visit to the 2 nd , return day.)
2) Continue to Pangdun (3 260m): its gompa has a large prayer wheel. The valley then curves to the north, passing
an unusual stupa before an entrance kani to Chhule (3 350m, Chu Li, shady side).
3) Continue, to cross a tributary (from a high waterfall) and then the Siyar Khola: climb to Nile (Nyi Li, sunny side) on
the north west bank to a lodge: to deposit your rucksack and have a quick early lunch. Overnight in Nile.
From Nile trek <2hr, past snow ridges to Mu Gompa (3 700m, 75 years). This is Tsum’s highest and last permanent
settlement and overlooks the valley and western Ganesh Himal, including Ganesh I. Visit the large Gompa.
5) Climb above Mu for a steep ¾ hr walk to the tiny Dephyu Doma Nunnery (Place of the Birth of Light, 4 000m, 862
years) perched on an unlikely slope: but with magical, exclusive views of Ganesh II and part of the western Himal.
Knock on the outer door to request entry and a nun will show you around.
The trail continues north of Mu to high grazing kharkas (pastures) with goths (herder’s huts): a few with seasonal
teahouse facilities on the two pass routes down to Kyirong in Tibet. In recent times this has become a sought-after
region for the lucrative collection of Yartse Gumba for the Chinese market.
Return to the Nile lodge for the night.
Trek: 7-8 hrs
Food: breakfast, lunch, dinner
Accomodation: Lodge
Day 9
3010 mtNile (3 480m/11 400ft) – Rachen Nunnery (3 240m/10 630ft) – Chhekampar (3 010m/9 850ft)
After breakfast, retrace your steps to Phurbe and on to the walled grounds of Rachen Nunnery (3 240m, 115 years):
of the Ngak-pa-sect of Buddhism: that forbids all animal slaughter. Visit the intimate original monastery near the
gate. Its old murals depict the history of Buddhism. Residential cells for the nuns and retreat buildings are set along
and within the monasteries’ walls. A new large, light and airy, temple with deities in glass-fronted cases now stands
further back in the grounds.
Cross the bridge below Rachen and return to Chhekampar for the night.
(Prior to the 2015 earthquake, two further days were spent trekking to Gumba Lungdang a large and welcoming high
Nunnery near the Ganesh Himal. Repairs are in progress – and it is hoped that the complex may reopen in 2024.)
Southeast of the Siyar Khola: Cross the second bridge to join the Rachen – Nile trail before Phurbe (3 250m). Walk
up to Pangdun (3 260m, its gompa has a large prayer wheel). The valley then curves gently to the north, passing an
unusual stupa before an entrance kani to Chhule (3 350m, Chu Li, shady side).
Trek: 5-6 hrs
Food: breakfast, lunch, dinner
Accomodation: Lodge
Day 10
1670 mtChhekampar – Lokpa
Retrace your steps to Chumling for lunch, then continue to Lokpa for the night.
Trek: 5-6 hrs
Food: breakfast, lunch, dinner
Accomodation: Lodge
Day 11
1670 mtLokpa – New Bridge (1 670m/5 480ft) – Bihi Phedi
Retrace your steps to the Tsum - Manaslu junction, then take the “New” Bridge trail that crosses the Budhi Gandaki
(shortly before its confluence with Tsum’s Siyar Khola) and follow the trail as it curves northwest into the Manaslu
Valley. The Budhi Gandaki has cut deeply through the rock, far below the trail. Rise, through bamboo forest to Deng
for lunch, and on to Bihi Phedi high above the river. Overnight in Bihi Phedi.
Trek: 5-6 hrs
Food: breakfast, lunch, dinner
Accomodation: Lodge
Day 12
2660 mtBihi Phedi – Ghap (2 250m/7380ft) – Namrung (2 660m/8 730ft)
Cross the gorge and later the Serang Khola (far below the Serang Gompa higher up the valley) and on to the
attractive village of Ghap for lunch. Enter a bamboo forest, beloved by birds. Next, cross to the north bank past
sheer rock walls that have constricted the river and forced it to flow, noisily, through a “burrowed” tunnel. A
wooden bridge eases the trekker’s route.
A steep hour’s climb then leads to the attractive village of Namrung – with some great lodges. Look out for glimpses
of the Tum Khola that flows into the Budhi Gandaki. This river rises in Tibet and is one of several that have continued
to cut their way through the rising Himalayan massive as it has risen over the last million years or so. Overnight in
Namrung.
Trek: 6-7 hrs
Food: breakfast, lunch, dinner
Accomodation: Lodge
Day 13
3180 mtNamrung – Lho (3 180m/10 430ft)
This is the entrance to ‘the western mountains’ of Upper Nupri, peopled by former Tibetans who speak a unique
language that is not understood by the Tibetan Gurungs – with whom they live in harmony. The trail climbs gently
through maize and barley fields to Barsam, then more steeply to Lihi (where homes are clustered under shared
roofs). Enters a side valley and climb steeply to a detailed chorten before the clustered fields and orchards of Sho.
Good views continue on the rise to Shrip.
From Shrip, the trail curves upwards towards Lho: and reveals the 8 th highest peak, Manaslu (8 156m/26 760ft) -
‘Mountain of the Spirit’.
A steep climb ends on the ridge in the attractive village of Lho. The stone houses are shingled and many have
distinctive wooden decks. A mani wall, behind the village, leads to a viewpoint that is worth exploring. The Budi
Gandaki flows far below. Above the village is the large Ribung Monastery. Overnight in Lho.
Trek: 4-5 hrs
Food: breakfast, lunch, dinner
Accomodation: Lodge
Day 14
3530 mtLho – Samagaon (3 530m/11 580ft)
The trail descends from the village to cross a river tributary then follows the stream upwards through glorious mixed
forest. A short final climb leads to a plateau: and Shyala. Impressive peaks rise in all directions: Manaslu and glaciers
ahead.
Later, cross a bridge over the Numla Khola that drains Manaslu’s Pungyen Glacier. Beyond is a trail to the left that
leads, over a ridge, to the glacier and the Pungyen Gompa on the glacier. Pass this turnoff and saunter down the
broad and attractive valley, past a school, extensive barley and potato fields to a large chorten.
Enter Sama through a Kani (decorative gateway) and pass an old gompa (smothered in mani stones) past clustered
low stone houses to lodges further on. Upper Manaslu and the Naike ridge can be seen. The large Kargyu Chholing
Monastery lies further up the valley: sadly, badly damaged in a fire in 2015.
Trek: 4-5 hrs
Food: breakfast, lunch, dinner
Accomodation: Lodge
Day 15
3450 mtSama, Rest and exploration day: Birendra Tal / Manaslu Base Camp options / Pungyen Gompa
1) A short walk beyond the Pema Chholing monastery to the Birendra Tal (lake, 3 450m) – snow melt from the
glacier above. View it from a hilltop or scramble down to a stony beach with numerous small stone chortens and
striking views of the terrain. 1½ hours.
2) A demanding trail above the far side of the lake stream climbs ~1 200m past the glacier’s snout to the Manaslu
Base Camp. Views back down the valley and upwards are good.
3) A trek to the Pungyen Nunnery (3 870m) on a ridge above the Pungyen Glacier: it offers superb views of the Nadi
ice ridges and Manaslu towering over the Gompa.
To get there, return on the trail back past the school to the turnoff (right). Head over a ridge then drop onto the
Pungyen glacier. Walk to the Gompa on its ridge ( ~2½h there = 5-6+ hrs). Above the complex is a cave – with even
better views. The route can be very cold and slippery; dress warmly, take refreshments and your guide.
Trek: 5-6 hrs
Food: breakfast, lunch, dinner
Accomodation: Lodge
Day 16
3860 mtSama – Samdo (3 860m/12 660ft)
Head north, passed the lake and several mani walls. Birch and Juniper stands cover the hills above the, now, north
flowing Budhi Gandaki. A stone wall across the valley separates the Sama and Samdo herds. Further on, a spur rises
above the confluence of the Budhi and Sonam Khola off the Sonam Glacier NE of the trail. Cross on a wooden bridge.
Climb steeply up the spur to a stone arch, amid fields. Walk up to Samdo: a clustered village and a yak and goat
herding post on the trade route to Kyirong in Tibet. It is the last village in Gorkha. The next is Gho in the Manang
District, in the Annapurna region, beyond the Larkya glacier.
The vegetation is now only alpine: low grasses, rhododendron and juniper scrub. After lunch, follow yak trails up the
spur above the village for magnificent 270 o views. To the east Sonam Peak and glacier. Ahead the Sama Valley and
ranges south of Manaslu (hidden behind a rocky peak). To the west, tomorrow’s route to the (improved) Dharmsala
high camp and Larkya glacier. Overnight in Samdo.
Trek: 3-4 hrs
Food: breakfast, lunch, dinner
Accomodation: Lodge
Day 17
4480 mtSamdo – Dharamsala/Larkya Phedi (4 480m/14 700ft)
Descend, past the animal pens, to a final crossing of the Budhi Gandaki before climbing gently towards the snout of
the Larkya Glacier beyond (the hidden) Larkya Phedi. To the south, below, the Syacha Glacier flows around the
massif hiding Manaslu. Its upper route becomes visible along the trail. Continue gently up to Larkya Phedi: and the
new lodges. Overnight in Dharamsala.
Trek: 4-5 hrs
Food: breakfast, lunch, dinner
Accomodation: Lodge
Day 18
3720 mtDharamsala – Larkya La (5 160m/16 930ft) – Bimthang (3 720m/12 200ft)
Larkya La involves a gradual 800m, 3-5hr ascent (when snow free) and a 1 500m descent to Bimthang. It can be
bitterly cold if windy; snow and ice will demand more time. Snow poles mark the route which is not difficult or steep,
but is everywhere rocky underfoot.
Breakfast and a pre-sunrise start begins with a gentle ascent to a ridge before a long ascent to the jumbled moraine
field. Walk past the first of four small lakes. Then a steady pull curves towards Larkya and the first group of summit
flags. The Cheo and Larkya Himal ridges block views to the north and south.
Ahead, a moraine ridge leads for ~30 min, to a second set of summit flags (and the boundary between the Manaslu
and Annapurna conservation regions). They also overlook astounding views into a huge semi-circular basin ringed by
a mix of ice peaks and rocky walls. Three glaciers flow towards the south west corner to form a single glacier. A steep
and treacherous 700m zigzag descent over loose gravel leads to the Taboche Kharka. Beyond, a more gradual
descent leads to the confluence of the glacier moraines and turns into the attractive Bimthang (plain of sand) Valley
– and welcoming attractive lodges. Overnight in Bimthang.
Trek: 7-9 hrs
Food: breakfast, lunch, dinner
Accomodation: Lodge
Day 19
2560 mtBimthang – Gho (2 560m/8 400ft)
The eastern view of Manaslu from Bimthang is very different to the classic aspect. Cross the Bimthang plain and
stony glacier, then climb the far moraine to enter pristine oak, rhododendron and pine forests. Descend along the
Dudh Khola’s west bank to Hompuk’s rock shelter, Sangura Kharka and, more steeply, to cross the Suti Khola at
Karche for lunch. Follow the river’s S-bend then climb a ridge past terraced fields to the charming Gurung village of
Gho. Overnight in Gho.
Trek: 5-6 hrs
Food: breakfast, lunch, dinner
Accomodation: Lodge
Day 20
1700 mtGho – Dharapani (1 920m/6 300ft) – Tal (1 700m/5 580ft)
After breakfast, descend through farmlands to the old paved village of Tilje. Continue the descent into the
Marsyangdi Valley through scrub forest to Tonje. In Tonje, cross the descending Marsyangdi Khola – from Manang
on the Annapurna Circuit route. Join the new road to Manang and walk down to bustling Dharapani for lunch.
Below Dharapani, cross to the left bank of the Marsyangdi Khola and descend through Karte to Tal. Overnight in Tal.
Trek: 3-4 hrs
Food: breakfast, lunch, dinner
Accomodation: Lodge
Day 21
1300 mtTal – Besi Sahar (760m/2 500ft) – Kathmandu (1 300m/4 260ft)
After an early breakfast cross the river to the road and take a jeep for the rutted descent, past the completed
hydroelectric scheme, to Besi Sahar and then the long drive back to Kathmandu. Farewell dinner. Overnight in your
hotel in Kathmandu.
Transfer: 6-7 hrs drive
Food: breakfast, lunch, farewell dinner
Accomodation: Lodge
Day 22
1300 mtFinal Departure
Transfer to Tribhuvan International Airport for your flight to your next destination. (If you have the time, we recommend you book an extra day in the city: in case of delays on the return.) Transfer: car Food: breakfast
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