Overview And Highlights

The Tsum Valley, east of the Manaslu trail, was first opened to trekking at the Tsumbas request in 2008. The valley lies along the border with Tibet and is one of the most secluded in the Himalayas. Little has changed and you are offered a rich glimpse into a bygone era. The topography of the region calls for much up and down walking, making this a fairly demanding trek: good initial fitness is essential.
The Tsumbas are of Tibetan origin, maintain a unique culture and form of Buddhism; they speak an ancient dialect.
Polyandry is still practised amongst some families; one girl married to the brothers of a family: They tend to be wealthier than ‘conventional “families”. Hand worked crops in the short growing season include barley, maize, buckwheat and potatoes. The population of ~4000 is slowly diminishing as younger people leave for more “lucrative” lives.
Their unique architecture includes impressive square chortens, clustered stone houses and numerous religious centres with ancient art and remarkable views. Mu and the 800-year-old Dephyu Nunnery are the end destinations and highest permanent places of year-round habitation. The Rachen Nunnery welcome visitors. The Rachen Nunnery near the Ganesh Himal was badly damaged in the 2015 earthquake. Restoration is well under way and it may be reopened in 2024. A night at the nunnery and invitation to the afternoon Puja was one of the highlights of the Tsum experience.

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Days

14 days

Distance

120 km

Difficulty

Demanding

Highest Point

4000 mt

Best Season For The Trek

The Tsumbas are of Tibetan origin, maintain a unique culture and form of Buddhism; they speak an ancient dialect.
Polyandry is still practised amongst some families; one girl married to the brothers of a family: They tend to be wealthier than ‘conventional “families”. Hand worked crops in the short growing season include barley, maize, buckwheat and potatoes. The population of ~4000 is slowly diminishing as younger people leave for more “lucrative” lives.

Trek Difficulty

The topography of the region calls for much up and down walking, making this a fairly demanding trek: good initial fitness is essential.

Day To Day Itinerary

Day 1

1300 mt

Arrival: Kathmandu Tribhuvan International Airport (1 300m/4 260ft)

After completing passport, immigration and visa requirements, collect your luggage and exit the building where we will meet you. (Look for our Travel Nepal Himalays name board and your name). We will then transfer you to your hotel: afternoon free.  Evening: a welcome dinner, trek description and a check on essential gear. Overnight in hotel.
Transfer: car
Food: welcome dinner
Accomodation: Hotel

Day 2

1300 mt

A Day in the City: Kathmandu Valley Sightseeing OR A Day at Leisure

Take a day tour that includes six heritage sites including Swayambhunath, the “Monkey Temple”; the historical Durbar Square with ancient temples, unique art, and the chance to see the Kumari (living goddess); Patan’s Durbar Square; the Hindu temple Pashupatinath and Bouddhanath, the world’s largest stupa. OR: A day at leisure to follow your own interests.
Transfer: car
Food: breakfast
Accomodation: Hotel

Day 3

890 mt

Kathmandu – Arughat (670m/2,198 ft) – Machha Khola (890m/2,920ft)

Enjoy the scenic drive west through the middle hills to Malekhu before turning north, on a quieter road, to Dhading Besi and Arughat (centre of the region) on the Budhi Gandaki Nadi. The inhabitants are a harmonious mix of Gurung and Newar people. The road then undulates over ridges, past waterfalls, before dropping to rice paddies and the attractive Gurung village of Labubesi. Beyond, the new road follows the river before rising to Machha (Fish) Khola – with good views of the 7,000m/22,950ft Ganesh Himal.  Overnight at Machha Khola.
Transfer: 7-8 hrs drive
Food: breakfast, lunch, dinner
Accomodation: Lodge

Day 4

1000 mt

Machha Khola – Dobhan (1,000m/3,280ft),

New roadworks are currently under construction; bound for Tibet. For now, the river trail drops to the gravel bar before crossing the Thado Khola to a rocky ravine and Khorlabesi. There is a small hot spring at Tatopani. The trail then climbs a ridge before crossing the Budhi Gandaki on a suspension bridge and up to Dobhan. Overnight at Dobhan.
Trek: 6-7 hrs
Food: breakfast, lunch, dinner
Accomodation: Lodge

Day 5

1590 mt

Dobhan – Philim (1,590m/5,216ft)

Trek along the east bank to a long suspension bridge over the Yaru Khola before rising to Thado Bharyang. Cliffs then force the trail back to the west bank and follow the river gently upwards to the attractive village of Jagat (and permit checks). Walk on to Salleri, via a cliff-side trail – with views of Shringi Himal (7,187m) to the north. Descend to Sirdibas; and the first signs of Buddhist culture. Another suspension bridge leads to the east bank, and a tiring climb up to Philim: a prosperous Gurung village and the Chholing Sandu Gompa, surrounded by fields of maize and millet. Overnight at Philim.
Trek: 6-7 hrs
Food: breakfast, lunch, dinner
Accomodation: Lodge

Day 6

2360 mt

Philim – Ekle Batti (1 600m/5 250ft) – (Lokpa (2 240m/7 350ft) – Chumling (2 360m/7 750ft)

The trail winds through scrub and lush grasses up the beautiful narrowing valley to the high millet fields of Chisopani, then Ekle Bhatti (one house) with a dramatic view. Gradually descend, past a spectacular waterfall, into the gorge and a junction: left to The Manaslu trail, right to Tsum. A well-graded trail zigzags up through blue pines and rhododendron, to Lokpa in the narrow Lower Tsum Valley. Tsum has 18 villages and is home to ~4 000 people. Drop down through forest, before tackling a long, steep climb up the south wall of the Siyar Khola gorge that drains Tsum. The ‘summit’ is at flags; overlooking colourful potato, bean and grain fields with Shringi Himal (7 178m) above. Descend to Gumlung and cross the river: for a final, gentler ascent to Chumling. The buildings are classic Tibetan but with sloping roofs to shed rain and snow. Overnight in Chumling.
Trek: 6-7 hrs
Food: breakfast, lunch, dinner
Accomodation: Lodge

Day 7

3010 mt

Chumling – Chhekampar (3 010m/9 850ft)

The trail crosses the river to new forest on an old landslide. Pass a water powered prayer wheel on a gentle trail in deep forest: look out for chattering white-faced langurs. At Tanju (2 480m) the small Damphe Gompa houses hundreds of small Chenresig (Buddha of Compassion) ceramic statues: a common feature in Tsum’s gompas. Beyond Dumje there are views of Baudha Peak and the Ganesh Himal. Cross the Sarphu Khola: draining the Syakpa Glacier from Shringi Himal. Then climb for ~2½ hrs, past Gho through birch, larch and pine forest, to the broad relatively flat Upper Tsum Valley. Impressive slate chortens facing Ganesh II precede a kani gate (a decorated entrance arch) to the, now joined, villages of Chhokang and Paro; collectively called Chhekampar (place of wisdom).  Houses nestle together to maximise agricultural land for barley, buckwheat, maize and potatoes: crops that ripen in high, short growing seasons. Yaks graze in pastures, tahrs graze along cliffs: and need monitoring to prevent crop losses. Overnight in Chhekampar. Exploration Days: Let your guide help you juggle the choice of activities with the time constraints: and possibly altering the choices, below, for each day…
Trek: 5-6 hrs
Food: breakfast, lunch, dinner
Accomodation: Lodge

Day 8

4000 mt

Chhekampar – Nile (3 480m/11 400ft) – Mu Gumba (3 709m/12 169ft) – Dephyu Doma (4 000m) – Nile

The Siyar Khola flows down the centre of the valley; two bridges cross it: the first before Ngakyu – Leru (south of the Rachen Nunnery), the second north of Lamjung and Milarepa’s Cave. Possible choices: 1) Walk to Ngakyu – Leru (3 200m) and on to Lama Gaon (3 300m) and Burji (3 380m):- for tickets to Milarepa’s Cave. There is an impression of Milarepa’s foot, an elephant shaped rock and two small gompas: one over his meditation place, the other devoted to local Nyingma-pa deities. Go early if you are enroute to Mu and Dephyu Doma Gompas. (Perhaps consider delaying this visit to the 2 nd , return day.) 2) Continue to Pangdun (3 260m): its gompa has a large prayer wheel. The valley then curves to the north, passing an unusual stupa before an entrance kani to Chhule (3 350m, Chu Li, shady side). 3) Continue, to cross a tributary (from a high waterfall) and then the Siyar Khola: climb to Nile (Nyi Li, sunny side) on the north west bank to a lodge: to deposit your rucksack and have a quick early lunch. Overnight in Nile. From Nile trek <2hr, past snow ridges to Mu Gompa (3 700m, 75 years). This is Tsum’s highest and last permanent settlement and overlooks the valley and western Ganesh Himal, including Ganesh I. Visit the large Gompa. 5) Climb above Mu for a steep ¾ hr walk to the tiny Dephyu Doma Nunnery (Place of the Birth of Light, 4 000m, 862 years) perched on an unlikely slope: but with magical, exclusive views of Ganesh II and part of the western Himal. Knock on the outer door to request entry and a nun will show you around. The trail continues north of Mu to high grazing kharkas (pastures) with goths (herder’s huts): a few with seasonal teahouse facilities on the two pass routes down to Kyirong in Tibet. In recent times this has become a sought-after region for the lucrative collection of Yartse Gumba for the Chinese market. Return to the Nile lodge for the night.
Trek: 6-7 hrs
Food: breakfast, lunch, dinner
Accomodation: Lodge

Day 9

3010 mt

Nile (3 480m/11 400ft) – Rachen Nunnery (3 240m/10 630ft) – Chhekampar (3 010m/9 850ft)

After breakfast, retrace your steps to Phurbe and on to the walled grounds of Rachen Nunnery (3 240m, 115 years): of the Ngak-pa-sect of Buddhism: that forbids all animal slaughter. Visit the intimate original monastery near the gate. Its old murals depict the history of Buddhism. Residential cells for the nuns and retreat buildings are set along and within the monasteries’ walls. A new large, light and airy, temple with deities in glass-fronted cases now stands further back in the grounds. Cross the bridge below Rachen and return to Chhekampar for the night. (Prior to the 2015 earthquake, two further days were spent trekking to Gumba Lungdang a large and welcoming high Nunnery near the Ganesh Himal. Repairs are in progress – and it is hoped that the complex may reopen in 2024.) Southeast of the Siyar Khola: Cross the second bridge to join the Rachen – Nile trail before Phurbe (3 250m). Walk up to Pangdun (3 260m, its gompa has a large prayer wheel). The valley then curves gently to the north, passing an unusual stupa before an entrance kani to Chhule (3 350m, Chu Li, shady side).
Trek: 5-6 hrs
Food: breakfast, lunch, dinner
Accomodation: Lodge

Day 10

2200 mt

Chhekampar – Lokpa

Retrace your steps to Chumling for lunch and then continue to Lokpa for the night.
Trek: 5-6 hrs
Food: breakfast, lunch, dinner
Accomodation: Lodge

Day 11

1860 mt

Lokpa – Ekle Bhatti – Philim – Jagat – Dobhan

Today’s route exchanges alpine flora for greener, denser subtropical vegetation – and more humid conditions. After an early breakfast, walk downhill to the trail junction for Manaslu, then trek up to the high waterfall and Ekle Bhatti: with great rear views! Continue through Philim to Sirdibas (the last Buddhist village) and Jagat for lunch. Continue to Dobhan for the night.
Trek: 5-6 hrs
Food: breakfast, lunch, dinner
Accomodation: Lodge

Day 11

1300 mt

Doban – Mache Khola – Kathmandu

After a quick and early breakfast, retrace your steps to Mache Khola. Where your jeep will be awaiting you. Board for the drive to Arughat, then out of the Budhi Gandaki Valley to Dhading; the better road to Malekhu and finally the highway to Kathmandu. We will stop for lunch on the way. Overnight at your hotel in Kathmandu. + Farewell dinner.
Trek: 2 hrs
Transfer: 8 hrs drive
Food: breakfast, lunch, farewell dinner
Accomodation: Hotel

Day 12

1300 mt

Final Departure

Transfer to Tribhuvan International Airport for your flight to your next destination.
Transfer: car
Food: breakfast

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